This new rose gold version of the 5524 is nothing more than a change of colours – for both the case and the dial – and the men’s version of a pair of watches introduced coincidentally at Baselworld 2018. Indeed, not only Patek has updated the men’s model but a ladies’ version has also been added to the collection, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 7234R Lady and its 37.5mm case – and indeed, it looks entirely equal with just different proportions, as reported by Rebecca in her review here. Two different sizes and a unique recipe for a highly desirable pair of watches. So, the question is: why this rather simple change of colours makes such a difference? answer a bit later in this article, after a look at the watch itself.
The watch Patek came with at Baselworld 2015 was quite classical – gothic applied numerals and antique pilot’s hands (that many compared to the Zenith Type 20 watches) – but when looking at Patek’s production, it was somehow radically different. So different that this watch became a hot topic of discussion. Back then, it was certainly a misunderstood creation. Yet, the watch had some arguments and, 3 years after its launch, many changed their minds – including me again – and the 5524 became an integral element of the collection (even with the inaugural white gold/blue dial combination).
Being a pilot’s watch doesn’t mean this Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524 isn’t a proper Patek either. It combines the attributes of both worlds in a desirable manner. The case, at least for a Patek, is large at 42mm and rather sporty in terms of shape and design. On the other hand, it was made of white gold and not of stainless steel. The dial showed large luminous numerals, yet they were extremely delicate in their execution. Also, the watch featured one of Patek’s signature display, the “Travel Time” indication as found on the Aquanaut for instance. Finally, the combination of a matte dark blue dial and a white gold case was sporty and in the vein of a pilot’s watch – and maybe, this is where it was too radical and not Patek enough.
What was Patek Philippe aiming to achieve with the Nautilus? When it was introduced in 1976, it was supposed to be a maritime lifestyle luxury watch for wealthy men and their family members who spent time boating or living by the sea. Genta pulled in design cues such as boat portholes for the design of the bezel and flanks, and the horizontal lines on the dial are meant to resemble teak wood boat decks. Not only was the starkly contrasting brushed and polished finishing on the case common practice for other watches produced at the time, but it was also evocative of the metal hardware of a yacht deck.
At the time Genta became involved in design, product design for watches was just as significant as product design of, for instance, automobiles. Everyone had them and used them, so because of the wide variety of these items, people were genuinely interested in unique designs. Thus, Genta was designing something that would be both worn and seen by everyone. In this case, the people wearing those watches were the rich elite that comprised Patek Philippe’s consumer base in the 1970s, and it’s the same demographic, albeit in larger numbers, that still wear Patek Philippe today.
My conclusion is that the Patek Philippe Nautilus is an excellent example of a men’s bracelet jewelry that just so happens to have a watch attached to it. The steel construction of the case and bracelet prevents it from being overly pretentious as well. Not only does a very respected watchmaker give the design the finishing and construction it deserves, but it also equips the watch with the finest non-complicated mechanical movements. Unlike Rolex, the movement isn’t hidden behind a solid caseback. Rather, Patek Philippe wants Nautilus owners to strut and show off that shiny in-house made caliber 324 S C through the sapphire crystal caseback.
In my opinion, the Nautilus is a perfectly made, modern sports watch for guys who are equally unlikely to wear their watch into the water today as they were in the past. Patek Philippe has maintained the same Nautilus archetype, while continuing to make it a more efficient and reliable timekeeper. In a way, there is no real 21st century Nautilus, and I’m not sure there ever will be. Despite much of its former creative glory, Patek Philippe today is an extremely conservative brand. I would love to see a Nautilus 2.0 (so to say) that transports the concept of a luxury sports lifestyle watch into the modern era. It would definitely be of Patek Philippe quality, but it would be more representative of contemporary values and aesthetics. Would that happen? Could that happen? If Patek Philippe chooses to take on that project, they could create something very cool.
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut celebrates its 20th anniversary in 2017. The watch that commemorates this milestone — the Ref. 5650 Aquanaut Travel Time “Patek Philippe Advanced Research” — has an 18K white-gold case measuring 40.8 mm in diameter and 11 mm thick and water-resistant to 120 meters
The reference 5650G contains the automatic caliber 324 S C FUS, which in this model has been enhanced with two innovations developed by the Patek Philippe Advanced Research laboratory. The first is the Spiromax(R) balance spring made of Silinvar(R), which is equipped with two terminal curves and optimized with an inner boss. It improves the isochronism of the balance in the vertical orientations of the watch. As a result, its rate accuracy ranges between -1 and +2 seconds per day — similar to the precision of Patek Philippe’s tourbillon watches.
The second innovation involves the time-zone setting device, which replaces the usual pivoting articulations with so-called “compliant” or flexible mechanisms. This device, which is composed of only 12 filigreed steel parts with several intersecting leaf springs — as compared to the 37 parts used in the traditional mechanism — transmits the actuations of the two time-zone pushers to the local time display.
As on other Travel Time watches in other Patek Philippe families, this Aquanaut displays the local time and date as well as a second time zone (usually the wearer’s home time) and a day/night indicator for both time zones. Two pushers in the left-hand case flank control the settings. On trips across several time zones, the local time hour hand can be adjusted forward or backward in one-hour steps. In the process, the day/night indicators and, if applicable, the date are also changed. When the owner is headed east, the local time is set with the pusher at 8 o’clock. The pusher at 10 o’clock corrects the local time on westbound trips.
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650 “Patek Philippe Advanced Research” is mounted on a night-blue strap, with an embossed pattern that echoes that of the dial, made of a water-resistant composite material. It fastens with a three-part foldover clasp in 18k white gold.
Both groundbreaking innovations are being explained in detail in this article.n the past twelve years, these partnerships have brought forth groundbreaking innovations such as Silinvar®, a completely new material with fantastic properties that opens up unprecedented opportunities in mechanical horology. The “flexible mechanisms” concept is just as revolutionary. It paves the way for totally new approaches in watchmaking. To showcase each important and highly practical innovation step within the scope of the Patek Philippe Advanced Research venture, the manufacture launched special limited-edition timepieces that were the first to be endowed with one of the state-of-the-art solutions.
It is interesting to note that the simple mention of the brand Patek Philippe always seems to create a lasting impact on most people. This brand of luxury timepieces has long been resting at the top of the Swiss watches list, undisturbed by the stiff competition that thrives in the country of dedicated manufacturers. Through the years, Patek Philippe watches have earned the adulation of the high society, including the royalties from different parts of the world.
The name of the company, which was coined from the owners Antoni Patek and Adrien Philippe, has built a strong reputation in the industry of watchmaking. Since the brand was founded in 1868, Patek Philippe has become one of the frontrunners in the development of the trade. It helped in the innovation of the movements and designs for pocketwatches and wristwatches.
In general, Patek Philippe replica watches may include two or more features such as the perpetual calendar, moonphase display, split-second hands, minute repeaters and chronograph. One of the most complicated Patek Philippe watches is the 24-function pocketwatch that was sold at an auction for a whopping US$11 million. Aside from the technologies applied to the watches, the elegance of the metals and precious stones also add to the defining qualities of the brand.
The milestones in the production of Patek Philippe copie watches are greatly impressive. From the royalty to the popes, the clientele of Patek Philippe remains unparalleled. The famous Queen Victoria of England had received a number of exclusive watches from the company since 1851. Soon, the brand Patek Philippe has flourished throughout the kingdoms in Europe, making it the official supplier to some political figures and even the popes.The company currently holds the world record having the most expensive pocketwatch and wristwatch ever sold at the auctions. With the kind of people that it serves and the price that it demands from the buyers, it is not surprising that Patek Philippe has become an authority in Swiss luxury watches.
Most of the men’s watches made by Patek Philippe are devised with more complications as compared to those timepieces designed for women. Perhaps the most popular line of watches under the brand is the Calatavra collection. Its trademark design is the round-shaped case with hobnail bezel. However, the additional features as well as the movements of the watches still vary from one to another; they can be automatic, manually wounded or quartz.